For years I was using Grobet-Mascot glue gel to dop stones for faceting; however, that glue is now no longer made. The suggested replacement is made in Taiwan but it is inferior - stones keep popping off the dop. Kwik-Fix super glue gel seems to be an adequate replacement and was readily available. Alas, it no longer is available, either. Tried contacting the manufacturer, but they are unresponsive. Anyone know of a good dop superglue gel?
If you use the hybrid dopping method, pushing the stone into slightly warmed and fluid wax and then gluing the stone to the unique depressions thus created, about any CA glue should work. Some folks feel that the glue is water soluble and paint the joint with clear nail polish to protect it from moisture. With this procedure, if the stone does pop off, it is easily reglued in the exact same position, as the wax creates a unique “keyed” footprint. I hope this will work for you. royjohn
Al I have to heat my stone almost hot. I use the green dippers wax.using gloves mind you now. Hold until it sticks it’s self. Then still met it sit for 30 minutes. Remember, water on wood under the wax will weaken the itegrety of the bond as well. Just be calm and patient. I’m sure we have alk had poo offs. But the way I do it seldomly occurs.
I used to use gorilla glue with a small bit of cornmeal mix so it dries harder. And that worked great I could usually work with the stone in about 1 hr or less. The problem was I had to make sure the glue set right about 25 mins in. And if I cut to at 90° angles I would risk breaking the seal. I know wax works great but I dont like the idea of heating stones to work with it. I have now moved on to good ol’ fashioned Krazy glue, I dont need additives or adjustments and so far no problems.
I have used Hot Stuff Yellow (Meduim) and Hot Stuff Green (Thicker) for a long time now and have very few issues. Can be ordered from Satellite City in Santa Rosa, CA.
royjohn is right on and this is the preferred method and what I use most of the time. It also has the benefit of working with heat-sensitive stones. You heat the wax (black for faceting) on the dop and then press (maybe with a transfer fixture) into the stone for just a second, then separate them. You then have a perfect impression of the stone in the wax on the dop. Put a drop of glue (even a large stone only needs a couple drops spread over the impression) in the wax impression then press them together, set it aside, and give it 10 minutes or so (even if the glue is 20-second bond - let it cure).
To separate takes some heat, that can be a downfall for some stones, but John Bailey has a nice method of separating them (for small stones). Look on youtube for gemstoneartist I think for a demonstration from his class. To remove the CA there is a solvent that is sold in hobby stores where you buy the CA. Alcohol will make it brittle enough you can “chip” it off with your fingernail.
It’s nice to receive some confirmation! If the stone is heat sensitive, it is nice to warm it gradually and gently, maybe under a heat lamp or by playing it into and out of an alcohol flame very very gently. Then the stone is about the same temperature as the wax, maybe 180-190*F. I don’t disagree that you can heat the end of the dop and the stone will fall off, but I am a nut about heat and I often just use a warmed up knife to cut through the wax until I can break the stone off. Then a quick soak in alcohol cleans off the wax. You could also just put the dop into the alcohol and let the wax dissolve, but that would take a little longer. I really don’t know whether the knife through the wax close to the stone or heating the other end of the dop results in less heat, just giving some other methods. HTH, royjohn
Hi Royjohn, I also use a heated blade to remove excess wax prior to stone removal. If you don’t have to worry about heat, you can soften the CA with heat and then (carefully so as not to burn your fingers) peel most of it off with your fingernail. It is a bit tricky, too hot and it is hard to handle, to cold and it won’t work well.