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Precious stone settings

Hi everyone,
My question is " would you set a precious gem stone like am emerald or ruby in 9 carat gold setting?"
Thank you

Do you mean setting a gem in 9 kt now? Gold jewelry from UK in the late 19th century was routinely set in 9 kt gold. So, if you’re asking about rubies and emeralds that exist in that kt and are 150 years old, the answer is yes. If you plan on setting stones now, not sure you even find 9 kt.

You can still get 9kt settings, but in truth if the gems are fo good quality why would you wish to set them in anything less than 18kt? Good quality gems for me should be given the best possible setting and personally I think 18 is the best choice it wears well and is stylish, 9 tends I think to be too brassy.

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As a designer I often set precious stones in 9ct gold, UK alloy.
Some clients prefer the colour and it can be stronger if the setting is quite fine. It also keeps the costs lower for the fine/ demi-fine market.
In the US I believe the popular choice is 10ct, but would need to confirm that.

Mazarin is bang on. In the UK it’s 9 and 18 karat, and the US it’s 10 and 14 karat.
Keep in mind that there are emerald and ruby of lesser quality that would be perfectly okay to mount in 9 or 10K, but when it comes to the finer quality gemstones… they belong in finer gold.


Depenfs on the quality of the stone??

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There are no rules that govern sound mind decisions in these matters, but why put a $30K ruby in a 9 carat ring? It disrespects, and would even affect the perceived value of the gem. This is just my opinion of course. I’ve been known to be wrong. :wink:


9 carat gold is the most commonly used gold in the UK. Being British myself, I was used to wearing mostly 9 ct when in my youth, as I travelled the world and lived in different countries my knowledge allowed me to virtually demand 18ct as my minimum for setting precious stones and enjoying decorative chains. I so agree with the previous reply, why would you want to set an expensive stone in 9ct, that really is a NO/NO now. I live in Sri Lanka, where I particularly enjoy the Sapphires.

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Hi I feel that the price of Gold now has influenced this and that people choose lower grade gold because of price, a fine top quality gem deserves a top quality gold setting, and in 18 ct gold here in Australia anyway thanks

Is K for Karat ( eg: 14K or 18K) stamped on jewellery the US gold stamp on fine jewellery? As I live in Australia we use ct stamp for carat eg: (9ct or 18ct).
Also can i please ask you about what patent meaning is on jewellery and numbers beside it?
Thank you

My question is "do you think a ruby mounted in 21ct gold would be a natural or synthetic gem stone’? What would the chances be?
Thank you

Hello please tell more about the stamps on the ( 21ct gold setting ) and its origin some countries have strange metals added to ie:- " dilute precious metals " for Religion Longevity and Culture just my theory no provenance but the markings would be interesting to see .
I did an apprenticeship as an Engraver / jewellery manufacturer in South Africa in the mid 70’s ( Apartheid times ) & had occasional dealings with African jewellers from the locations for stone setting plus engraving . The colour of the " Gold " varied but had no official stamp but the symbol was still as strong as the purity of the precious .
My claim to fame as i was the first person in South Africa to take a trades test in Engraving & the only people to access the work was the Engravers at the south African Mint .

You would need to run tests on the gemstone to determine if it’s natural or synthetic, because gold content in the setting has nothing to do with the stone. With gold, the lower the K , the less gold is contained in the item, which is why you should be mindful what setting you’re choosing. If it’s a pendant, then you can go 18k or higher, because pendants don’t receive a lot of wear and tear, but if it’s a ring, you’ll want to stay with 14k or 18k if it’s not being worn that often. Gold is a soft metal, which is why it’s mixed with other metals, so the higher the gold content in a ring, the more risk you have with it bending and losing it’s shape. With regard to the stamps, its required to mark the gold content, some countries require their stamp to appear so you know the country of origin and some jewelry houses stamp their items so you know who created the piece. Hope this helps.